Today would be the final leg of our long weekend in the mountains. We planned to follow the Garfield Ridge trail over Mt. Garfield and connect with the Greenleaf Trail. From there we would crest Mt. Lafayette, collecting two more 4,000-footers and finally hiking down into the Greenleaf Hut. This leg had 2,500 feet of elevation gain and would make us earn it.
Waking up at Galehead Hut
This morning we woke to the soft crooning of one of the Galehead Croo and then informing us that breakfast would be served at seven o’clock. Some people were stirring in their bunks while others hit their internal snooze button and tried to block out the growing commotion in the bunk room. We reluctantly left the warmth of our sleeping bags and washed the sleep from our eyes. The clouds had settled in thick around the hut allowing only a translucent view of the outside wilderness. After some morning stretches, several sighs and sporting morning hair, we went in search of a spot at the breakfast table.
Sitting down
Breakfast, like all meals at the huts, it arrives at the table family style. We found ourselves handing down steaming bowls and platters of oatmeal, scrambled eggs, sausage, potatoes and vegan pancakes which we washed down with lots of water, juice, hot chocolate and coffee. The breakfasts are always great and very appreciated as our hunger made us forget the manicotti dinner from the evening before.
A Hard Decision
Between bites of breakfast, we talked about the previous day’s journey and the goals we would set for today. The White Mountains are an arduous place to wander around on foot. The terrain and the elevation exact a toll for the reward of grand vistas and peaceful commune with nature. We had sustained several scrapes and bruises, particularly on the climb down into the Galehead hut but, those are just the badges of hiking on a given day in New Hampshire. However, there were two more severe ailments to consider. I had given my ankle more of a tweak than I had realized the day before and it had swollen up while I lie in my bed overnight. Karine was also nurturing her back and was thinking more about a massage than a climb over Mt. Lafayette. In addition to the physical issues, the extra two miles and the climb down to the hut had taxed us psychologically. As we hunched over the map and pondered the two peaks we would assault today I could feel some apprehension at the table. There are times to press on, and there are times where we should consider what we wanted from our weekend. It was clear to me that this was one of those times best served not by another day of pressing hard, but by taking the time to relax and recuperate. I pointed to the Gale River Trail on the map. It would be just under four and a half miles and bring us out of the mountains. There were relieved looks from everyone in the group and enthusiasm for the new plan. We returned to the bunk room of our newly conquered hut to pack up and make our way downhill.
Leaving Galehead Hut
A blanket of fog and clouds which had become our regular morning companion greeted us as we headed out of the hut and back down the Frost Trail. The cooking smells from Galehead clung close to the shelter as we hefted our packs and made our way off the front porch and onto the track. A short distance outside of the hut we came to the junction of the Frost, Twinway, and Garfield Ride trails, taking the left fork to follow the Garfield Ridge Trail for the next half mile. Matthieu took the lead as was our habit in the mornings and would switch off with Alexis at various points along the trail. The trail was still damp with the morning fog but had a consistent downward grade that boosted our spirits. I caught up to Alexis standing under an old, weathered post with signs pointing along the Garfield Ridge Trail and another showing us the way down along the Gale River Trail. It was now time to give up our plans for Greenleaf Hut officially. We turned down the Gale River Trail and headed for civilization.
Gale River Trail
The Gale River Trail was a well-traveled and groomed path. It has a steady downward grade and is easy to follow. The warmth of the valley embraced us the further down the trail we traveled. Fleece jackets were stowed in packs, and zip-off pant legs were removed. It was going to be a beautiful day. We heard the rushing of the Gale River as it paralleled us for much of the trail. It was close enough to be a companion but distant enough that we couldn’t always see it. About halfway down we crossed a stream that would feed into the river in another five hundred feet. We ran into the family from the night before who had taken our reservation and traded greetings on this chance encounter. Another couple of miles further down the trail, we stopped on some fallen trees to take in some calories and water. The rest was welcome, but we were anxious to reach the bottom. Little did we know that we were only about five minutes from the parking lot. Once we got going again, we were delighted to find it so close.
The Hiker Shuttle
Sunshine greeted us as we emerged into the Gale River Trailhead parking lot. We found an inviting spot by the information board and let our packs fall to the ground. Digging out the food and Gatorade we sat in the grass to discuss our current dilemma. Since we had not originally planned to come out where we were, we did not have a plan in place for getting back to The Highland Center where our car was waiting. We had a reservation on the AMC Hiker Shuttle to pick one of us up tomorrow at Franconia Notch and take us back to The Highland Center, but we had nothing scheduled for today. The cell phone signal on the way down the mountain was nonexistent, so I was unable to reach the AMC Reservation Center to see if I could arrange a change to my agenda. I had also given our last cash-on-hand as a tip for the great job that the hut Croo had done at the Zealand and Galehead huts. This meant that paying the driver for a ride when he arrived was not an option either. I was looking at a walk out to the main road of about a mile and a half. I grabbed a water bottle and was prepared to walk back to civilization so I could arrange a ride. As luck would have it, karma had another idea. The family that we had met at Galehead Hut were waiting on the shuttle as well. They offered us their cell phone, which had a better signal. I was able to reach the AMC Reservation Center, and they were very kind in changing my shuttle reservation from the next day to today. My legs let out a silent whoop of joy! They even credited me the cost of my reservation at Greenleaf Hut for the evening toward a night at The Highland Lodge. With a family of four, that was a significant saving. We all settled in to await the AMC Hiker Shuttle and our trip back to The Highland Center Lodge.
Lodge-Life
The AMC Highland Center has long been our favorite place to relax and unwind. It felt like coming home as we walked in and walked over to reception with two days of the trail on us. The fire was going, and the rest of the family crashed in the giant, plush chairs in the main room while we got our room assignment. Several people wandered in and out from the trails with backpacks or just summer attire. I returned with the keys, and we started up the stairs with dreams of hot showers in our heads. With an abrupt stop on the staircase, we realized that we didn’t have anything clean to change into. Just over our left shoulder were the gift shop and a wide array of tourist t-shirts. We grabbed some t-shirts and other essentials and headed upstairs for the bliss of hot showers. When we came down later for dinner, it was like the scene from Pulp Fiction with our newly acquired souvenir t-shirts and flip-flops. As the night closed in, we called it a night and headed up for some well-deserved rest.